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the shutter rod with 2 collars and a spring around them. Its quite likely that this lot will be well gunged-up and the lower collar may not come out. If so, dont worry too much about it but beware of it falling out and becoming lost. Dump the lot into cleaning fluid for a while. While its soaking, clean inside the tube where it all fits, using a cotton bud or similar, soaked in cleaning fluid. This will also clean the gear intruding into the bottom of the tube. Lubricate the gear along with the one it meshes with; use silicone grease.

Lubricate the cleaned parts with silicone grease and reassemble. Take care that the shutter release rod is inserted the right way up - the narrowed part goes at the TOP. Make sure the rod enters the shutter button properly, a little wiggling as you put the button back in may be needed. Line up the L-shaped cutout in the shutter button with the hole in the rewind collar and replace the screw, hold the button down partway as you replace the screw. Make sure the button and rewind collar operate properly. Its very easy to misalign the cutout so that the screw locks the shutter button solid - you may need several attempts!

The rewind collar disengages a dog-clutch inside the film sprocket when in the rewind position. Look at the sprocket and you will see a slot near the top (photo 31) with a screw showing (dont be tempted to undo the screw, nor the one in the top of the sprocket). If the

sprocket fails to engage properly after rewinding films, this is the likely culprit. A few drops of cleaning fluid dropped into the slot will probably free things. Put a drop of oil here regardless. Note that cleaning fluid added will find its way out of the bottom of the sprocket, so wrap some tissue around it to prevent it running where its not wanted. The shaft at the bottom of the sprocket should have a small drop of oil too, turn the rewind collar fully clockwise first to make access easier.

If the rewind still sticks after this, the top plate must be removed to get at the dog-clutch. This entails major disassembly and is not covered in this how to . The clutch and sprocket internals are shown in photo 32, for those interested.

While youre in that area of the camera, clean and lubricate the gears found by the top of sprocket - use silicone grease. Be careful not to damage or displace the ratchet or its spring, located between the spool and sprocket gears. This task is easier if the spool is removed, as it will be if the top plate has been removed. Alternatively undo the large screw head found in the base of the spool and remove the shaft, spring and spool. Note the plastic part in the top of the spool, like a washer with ears . Replace carefully to ensure this part sits properly in the top of the spool - its a royal pain!

Part 5 -- Lubricating the Shutter

This part covers lubricating cleaning the shutter mechanisms. The top cover must have been removed.

There are two areas that require lubrication. The bearings for the shutter spring rollers and drum need to be lubricated at several points from the top and bottom. If these appear to be seriously gummed up then the top plate will need to be removed, which means the whole shutter crate will need to be disassembled, a major task. Fortunately, this probably not be needed. The restrictor gear is only accessible from the bottom.

To access these parts, the restrictor gear in particular, the crate must be removed from the body as follows: Remove the three rear top plate screws (photo 33) and two front screws (photo 34).

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